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What are the two Pre-Sets? |
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| i-Roast 2 |
stage 1 |
stage 2 |
stage 3 |
| Preset1 |
450°F for 10:00 |
N/A |
N/A |
| Preset2 |
455°F for 6:00 |
400°F for 4:00 |
435°F for 1:30 |
i-Roast |
stage 1 |
stage 2 |
stage 3 |
| Preset1 |
385°F
for 3:00 |
425°F
for 4:00 |
455°F
for 2:00 |
| Preset2 |
455°F
for 6:00 |
400°F
for 4:00 |
435°F
for 1:30 |
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We recommend to use only 70 - 80 grams for Preset 1 with the i-Roast 2 to ensure an even roast.*
The two pre-sets are for you to use as a guideline
only. The two preset times are to ensure you can
get a dark roast. You need to watch the whole process.
In order for you to get the roast you desire; you
may need to press the COOL button, so you do not
over roast your beans.
*Many of our customers still enjoy our Precision, so for that reason, in the i-Roast 2, Preset 1 is set at 450 F for 10 minutes. |
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What are the setting temperature, LCD display temperature
and the real bean temperature? |
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Setting temperature: it is the target temperature
on each roasting stage. Due to the heating
power limit and the ambient variation, it
may take several minutes to reach this target
temperature. After the setting temperature
is reached, I-Roast will maintain this temperature
for the rest of time in this stage. In certain
extreme cases, it is just impossible to achieve
the goal you set, for example, if you set
stage 1 for 485°F for 10 seconds, then you
won't be able to get 485°F in 10 seconds,
it's just impossible. |
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LCD Display temperature: this is the temperature
feed back from the temperature sensor located
upstream of the glass roasting pot. If you
look down at the top opening of the power
base, you will see this little red sensor. |
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Real bean temperature: if you stick a TC
or thermometer inside the roasting pot, you
will measure the air temperature around the
beans at the measuring spot. You may get different
temperature at different measuring spot, and
at different roasting stages you will see
the temperature fluctuation due to the internal
chemical reaction. Real bean inside temperature
is very hard to measure if not impossible. |
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So all the above temperatures are for your
roasting reference only. |
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How do you lock the roasting glass onto the power
base? I feel like I am going to break it. |
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| Push down the roasting pot, then turn. |
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How does the I-Roast work? |
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In the beginning heating up
stage, the I-Roast will have low motor RPM
(low air flow) most of the time together with
the highest heating power in order to reach
the setting temperature as quickly as possible.
And because the beans are green and cold in
the beginning, they can resist the heat better
than later stage. If the RPM is always at
the high level, it may never be able to reach
your setting temperature at a given heating
power. |
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Only after the setting temperature
is reached, the I-Roast will kick into high
RPM mode and maintain this temperature for
the rest of the time in this stage. So if
you have a relatively high temperature setting,
you may see that it takes long time before
the roaster kicks into high RPM range -- This
may cause unevenness and sometimes burns on
the beans. This is more often if the ambient
is cold, it take longer time to reach your
setting temperature. |
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In order to maintain the temperature
more accurately, the I-Roast not only has
different modules on RPM variation, but also
has the selection on heaters and heating mode. |
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Please keep in mind, the motor
RPM (air flow) is higher when the hot air
temperature (your setting temperature) is
lower, and vise versa. So you can adjust your
settings accordingly to achieve the best result. |
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Why does the machine seem to ramp up and down or "surge" during roasting? |
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It is normal for the roaster to act that way. The reason why the roaster surges off and on is to keep the temperature where the user programmed it at. When the fan is blowing low, the temp is increasing, when the temp is blown high, the temp is decreasing. It is very hard for the roaster to stay at a consistent temp for long period of time. To help to stay as close as possible to the desire temp, the fan blows low and high depending on the ambient temp inside the roasting pot, the temp setting, and the amount of chaff that is produce from the roaster. Because of these variables, there is no pattern when the roaster surges on and off.
For example, if the temp is set at 420 F, the fan will blow low for most of the roast, when it gets above 420 F, it will start blowing high to get it back to 420 F. Also, within the first three minutes of any roaster or any roasting profiles, the temp will never go above 355 F and the fan will blow high during the first three minutes. The reason for this is to create an even roast. Every bean has different amounts of moisture. Even though it is very little, it is enough to create unevenness. So what the roaster does in the first three minutes, it is trying to sufficiently dry out all the beans so they will be at the same level. |
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Why does my chaff collector assembly come off from
the glass pot? |
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Once the whole assembly is properly
locked onto the glass pot, it should be fairly
tight. So please check to make sure all taps
and notches are engaged in position. |
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Another way is to insert a piece
of paper between the chaff collector base
handle and the roasting pot handle; sometimes
it makes the locking even tighter. |
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Why is the mixing not well? It burned my beans. |
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Please clean up the chaff collector
screen. Make sure the input voltage is high
enough. The unit is rate at 120V. |
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Please refer to "How does
the I-Roast work? |
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You may have a relatively high
temperature setting, then it takes long time
before the roaster kicks into high RPM range
-- This may cause unevenness and sometimes
burns on the beans. This is more often if
the ambient is cold, it take longer time to
reach your setting temperature, and the temperature
is too high, it burns the beans. |
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Try to set the temperature lower,
for example, set the highest temperature at
440°F. |
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Also you can try to reduce the
roast amount. |
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Why doesn't my i-Roast roast dark? |
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The I-Roast is set with higher
temperature, and that's why people may find
the roasting results from Preset1 and Preset2
to be on the darker side. This is to make
sure you can get dark roast first. You can
always reduce the time or decrease the temperature
to get your desired roasting result. |
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If you think your roast cannot
roast dark, first check the input power, it
is rated at 120V with 1500W. |
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Then it may be due to cold environment.
It will always take longer time to get dark
roast if the ambient temperature is lower,
or even below freezing mark. |
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Or you have too much hot air
leakage -- please make sure all parts are
locked in position and not loose. If too much
hot air leaking from the lid, the gaps or
the holes, then you will lose too much heat.
We recommend not modifying the unit in any
way. |
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Why doesn't the motor start? |
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Check the power connection. |
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When the unit is placed in a
cold environment, the bearings and lubricant
on the motor may get stuck. When you push
"Roast" it will move for a short
moment and reset the LCD to "0".
Move the unit to a warmer place, such as indoor,
after about 30 minutes and start again, it
should work. |
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How do you assemble the smoke vent attachment? |
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There are four bigger holes
on the top lid, not opened. |
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Insert the 4 short straight
prongs on the smoke vent attachment into these
4 holes. The assembly should look like this
picture: http://www.hearthware.com/images/i-Roast-a.jpg |
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Attach a 4" flexible aluminum
pipe to the top. This you can get at any hardware
store. You can bend the top 4 prongs to make
the pipe fit tight. |
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DO NOT touch any part of the
vent or the pipe during roasting, this will
be very hot (~450°F) and may cause burns! |
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Why do the push buttons keep getting stuck? |
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This may be due to the misalignment
of the button, and sometimes if the edge of
button is pushed in and tilted, the plastic
may rub each other and won't release. We recommend
pushing at the center of the button only. |
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There are 6 crosshead screws
located on outer ring of the bottom of the
power base, 3 exposed, and 3 inside the rubber
feet. First, remove all the screws, and twist
and adjust the housing/body against the bottom
base, the housing/body and the bottom base
are two parts, then you might be able to get
the buttons aligned with the switches. Then
you can put back all the screws. |
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Another alternative is adjusting
the tightness of the 6 screws. |
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